Indiana had the highest population of Gamba … Autobelays have made chatty gym partners obsolete. Gamba!” for whomever was up on the wall. Over the years, a number of strong American climbers have visited Japan to repeat hard boulders. Other historical ascents have taken place in the country, like the 34-year-old Tomoko Ogawa’s ascent of Catharsis in Shiobara, the first V14 ascent by a woman. With so many tools available to a continuous improvement professional, it is easy to get overwhelmed and consequently focus on a narrow grouping of tools. The ascents of the past were done in those styles because of the constraints of their era, whether that be gear or ability. Cam shoes, for the climber that has never accused tape gloves of being aid. At the bottom, pull some string or something to release it (the engineers will figure this part out). With only one U.S. competitor making semifinals and four Japanese qualifying in the top 10 spots at the men’s comp, Nathaniel wasn’t the only one who wanted to figure out what made these climbers tick. © 2020 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved. 3. Kiyosato, a resort 40 minutes away, has more restaurants; try houto and soba noodles. Just clip the giant extendable ladder to the chains, then downclimb from up to 200 feet above the ground. “Try okonomiyaki, a kind of Japanese pancake. Carlo Traversi and Sasha DiGiulian came for the Five Ten Cup in 2015, and a handful of strong climbers have developed classic lines outside, such as Kumite (V10) by Jason Kehl, Two Monks (V10) by Chris Sharma, and the popular Frequent Flyer (V6) by Obe Carrion. Check out ogawayama.com for detailed information in English. The fitness world is rife with wearables. Toshi Takeuchi translates the Ena guide for visiting pro Carlo Traversi. Muroi, now 43, has been putting up hard first ascents in Japan since the early 2000s, and he is not only famous for his renowned FAs, like Bansousha (8c/V15) in 2001 and Kakusei (8c/V15) in 2007, but also for completing these committing boulders with few or no pads. The Japanese performance in Vail was a chorus of power and technique; tricky sequences, balancey bulges, and dynos were easily dispatched. Just climb with your AR visor, and the app will display a digital toprope above you at all times. Black Diamond has invented the heated chalk bag. I sat with my friends behind the main crowd while the last of the competitors finished up the men’s final round. Last year during koyo, or fall, one of Japan’s best climbers, 30-year-old Toshi Takeuchi, showed me through the Mizugaki forest. ” French: “Allez!” and Japanese: “Gamba!” The VNGA can even sense when you’ve whipped and will tell you “Good-effort-bro. My favorite shop is named ‘Hassho’ [in Hiroshima]. The setters mixed “advanced” holds, like bad slopers or giant volumes, in with better, more positive holds on beginner climbs. The second path concentrates on hard ascents, with a focus on indoor climbing and competition. The thinner the crack, the more it sucks. Sports Mole previews Monday's Serie A clash between Torino and Sampdoria, including predictions, team news and possible lineups. This was 100% of all the recorded Gamba's in the USA. “A combination of trains and a rent-a-car will expand your range,” local climber Nobuhiko Fukuda says. “We have good routesetters that are good at what they do. Gemba Kaizen is a Japanese concept of continuous improvement designed for enhancing processes and reducing waste. Mt. The comp was nearly over, and cheers came from a crowd beyond the front desk. You’ll find it 120 miles west of Tokyo, in a valley littered with granite faces and blocks. Japanese setting involved teaching a basic technique or style of climbing based on footwork, balance, and creative problem-solving skills. A humor column. Fall (October through early December) or spring (March through May). A view of Mt. We are in a golden age of climbing gear. Photo: Colette McInerney. Right, I thought, to the right. But there is a solution: Cam Shoes, rock shoes with spring-loaded camming devices extending from the toe. Hospitality is a way of life here. I found that each gym had a core group of “membership” climbers who would climb together a few times a week, bring in new friends, and have snacks and tea during a session. Your actions decide if you stick it or fall. Winston is described as both a demon and a monster. Which is why I started things off by creating a new theme suitable for any similar video aggregation site. English guidebooks are scarce as well, and most informational websites are in Japanese. While most Japanese climbers today use pads, I did see a different culture of pads overall. Looking up at the boulder’s slabby ending, I got chills when I noticed that the slopey crimps, pockets, and sidepulls seemed to disappear about 30 feet off the deck. After visiting a few Tokyo apartments, I could see how storing pads of this size would be precarious. Located about 2.5 hours from Tokyo, city-based climbers leave before 5 a.m. on the weekend in order to beat traffic, which can mean crawling through the mountain’s tunnel passes for hours on end. Daniel Woods ticked Hydrangea (V15) in 2013, and Ashima Shiraishi climbed Horizon (V15) in 2016, which made her the first woman and youngest person to climb the grade. Unsent /un-sent/ 1. The traditional path emphasizes the style and ethics of an ascent. Rooms fill quickly, and the reservations website is in Japanese. “Try visiting Akihabara,” Fukuda says, referring to the Tokyo district. Definition of Gamba in the Definitions.net dictionary. He is humble, polite, charismatic and enigmatic at first, but that hides his true personality: a cruel, lying, vile, and sadistic creature. This kind of ritualistic Japanese culture comforted my western mind when I first arrived because it seemed reliable, but after a few months it was suffocating. GAMBA LIVING. The line had two ascents, he explained, the first ascent by Tokio Muroi in 2011 and a repeat by Toru Nakajima in 2013. The immense number of people in the metro area combined with a working culture—most have little or no vacation time and punch the clock five to six days a week—suggests the necessity of a huge gym culture. Then shut up and get some Cam Shoes. Photo: Colette McInerney. Day hikers and tourists meandered along the wider paths and visited the fully stocked hiker lodge that offers warm meals, drinks, and trinkets. It has been serialized in Naver Corporation's webtoon platform Naver Webtoon since June 30, 2010, with the individual chapters collected and published by Young Com into four volumes as of June 2020. But none tell you what you need to hear most when struggling on a crux: “Good job.” While belayers can provide encouragement, as soon as you pull a roof or climb around a corner, you’re out of sight and out of luck. I had come to live here while my boyfriend completed a one-year research project. Nowadays, when someone will open a new route around here, they consider climbing style very seriously,” he said. The building’s signs were written in katakana, hiragana, and kanji, a collection of symbols I wasn’t any closer to deciphering since I had arrived in the world’s biggest metropolis a year ago. Not only is Yuta an expert climber in his own right, but his work as a contributor at Lost Arrow, one of Japan’s top outdoor gear distributors, keeps him closely aligned with current happenings in the climbing scene. I only learned about its location through word of mouth. The campground in Mizugaki costs 1,000 yen per night (U.S. $10). I stumbled through obligatory apologies about my lack of Japanese and mimed that I was here for the comp. Japanese detectives call the crime scene genba, and Japanese TV reporters may refer to themselves as reporting from genba. Photo: Colette McInerney. Tower of God (Korean: 신의 탑; RR: Sin-ui Tap) is a South Korean manhwa released as a webtoon written and illustrated by S.I.U. In business, however, gemba refers to the place where value is created. is a Japanese term meaning "the actual place" or "the real place". “Most train stations in Tokyo are labyrinths.”. “I was hoping to uncover the secret behind all these strong Japanese climbers, some kind of workout ritual or special routine,” he said, referring to the comp’s talented field of local competitors and their incredible finger strength and meticulous technique. The most Gamba families were found in the USA in 1920. To have failed so badly on a route you had previously climbed that you negate your redpoint. Where to climb Ogawayama, the hub of Japan’s climbing scene, is known for bouldering, but has sport, trad, and multi-pitch lines too. In business, gemba refers to the place where value is created; in manufacturing the gemba is the factory floor. Never step on someone’s pad with your street shoe—most Japanese climbers carry a small mat and towel to wipe their climbing shoes before stepping onto the rock or pad. This is considered big-time rude!”, An outsider decodes the intricacies of Japanese climbing culture, © 2020 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved. Source: am climber in Japan Funnily, Gamba, as a contraction of Gambatte, doesn't seem to be used in other contexts besides climbing. Translations written in Roman characters could only get you so far, though, because everything here seemed to be built, moved, and changed faster than I could keep track. Also, “You should always ask before using someone’s mat (crashpad),” photographer Colette McInerney says. It’s mostly because of the accessibility; there aren’t much beginner-friendly trad climbs in Japan,” Naoya Naito told Climbing magazine a few years ago. Train hard, be polite, and offer hospitality—that’s enough to make anyone a better climber, on and off the wall. Fall and spring get chilly, so pack warm clothes and a down jacket. Oregon inspired Italian food, and whatever other eats the day may call for! It was so scary,” he wrote. The accessibility of bouldering and indoor climbing has brought a boom in youth teams and comps. Ask someone who has visited before or try to find a local on social media who can point you in the right direction. Translations in context of "gamba" in Italian-English from Reverso Context: in gamba, mia gamba, sua gamba, tua gamba, gamba sinistra ... Arabic German English Spanish French Hebrew Italian Japanese Dutch Polish Portuguese Romanian Russian Turkish Chinese. If we happened down the wrong trail, we’d soon find another chalked boulder that was bound to hold a few classic lines. In an interview with Alpinist, Kurakami explains his motivation and ethics behind the bold ascent. Always ask before climbing on a boulder that has people around it. Sasha DiGiulian warms up on a V4 at Ena. Summit beers are OK, but how about a nice, fresh summit biscuit straight out of the oven? I’m hoping that it will someday arrive in the ‘States in some media format, even excusing the fact that it … Couple that with a few sandbag boulders, and visiting climbers quickly figure out to focus on the lines that inspire them instead of the grade. It has two “levels” (kyu and dan). A higher number in dan means the problem is harder, but a higher number in kyu means it’s easier. From there, you can reach both the Mitake bouldering area and Ogawayama via public transportation. Live Art. How do they fit a gym on the third floor anyway? In climbing, this translates to specific rituals. Naito is a longtime climber, and he owns 10 climbing gyms in the Tokyo area. We can find good training methods online, so everyone is able to try out these new trends,” Toshi says. As a gaijin, or foreigner, I wasn’t held to the same standards of cordiality in the culture, but I found that the daily scramble of trying to blend in with locals was exhausting. Toproping, on the other hand, is not scary. Around the campsite, rockfaces and big granite boulders are laid out before you everywere you look. You can rent pads for the riverside boulders in a store 50 meters from the Mitake train station. Gamba is on my personal list of ‘Best TV Cartoons’ (which covers both US and Japanese shows) ever made, and if anybody ever gets a chance, watch the show at your own time. 2. Many newer gyms offer only bouldering, but bigger facilities on the edge of the city have more space for taller walls, toproping, and lead climbing. Avoid the summer rainy season. Instead of relying on guidebooks and internet beta like you can with many European destinations, you’ll need to plan differently. Yuta cited the recent send of Keita Kurakami and Yusuke Sato when they did the hardest multi-pitch trad line in Japan, Senjitsu-no Ruri (5.14a R/X, 250m, 7 pitches), on the granite spires of the 7,316-foot Mt. You-were-robbed,” as well as sense when you’ve clipped the chains to tell you that it’s proud of you and that it loves you. The most common use of the term is in manufacturing, where the gemba is the factory floor. Bend your toes to retract the lobes, place the cam in a crack, release the trigger, and voilà, a comfy platform to stand on, available in various widths/cam sizes. What does Gamba mean? “It’s the third floor in the building to the right of McDonald’s,” my friend Dave’s text read. Though these formalities made me feel safe, so many particulars in each social interaction gave me anxiety, like I wasn’t fitting into the Japanese culture at all. Bowls of ramen, punctual train times, and a growing green tea obsession were enough for me. The combination with beer or sake is nothing but perfect,” Fukuda says. Meaning of Gamba. Resembling an ordinary chalk bag, this insulated, battery-powered “oven” is worn around your waist. While the startup hub of Fukuoka bubbles with international attention, the volcanic terrain to the south continues to rumble and smoke. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t an even greater future of climbing gear ahead, one that will make the current future look like the past. Need we say more? Gold, red, and orange leaves lit the mountainside where spheres of gray granite bluffs, home to a number of popular trad climbs, peeked out between the trees. It wasn’t until I hit the final track that I spotted other climbers carrying pads, though smaller and more conservative, and I finally relaxed. Unsent: Rappelling—The Most Extremest Sport. I found the building’s entrance, which led down a corridor to a tiny elevator that took me up to the third floor where the door opened to a large room. “These two aspects [physical and mental] are always mixed together so I don’t think I can talk about these separately,” she says. A Japanese climber on Ninja Gaeshi (V5), Mitake. Do you use sticky rubber and chalk? ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) I'm sure my brothers and sisters in weeb community will be delighted with this one. This cleanest style has been respected and performed in this area ever since the late 1980s. According to the site 99boulders, 10 percent of the world’s 100-plus hardest boulders are in Japan, and many of them belong to Dai Koyamada, one of Japan’s top climbers. Gamba no Bouken is a fantastic little adventure piece directed by Osamu Dezaki during the turning point in Dezaki's 70s series. Whether they are conscious or not, I think this thinking may exist on base of Japanese mind.” Shogyu is a philosophy wherein one can find enlightenment through training and toughening the body. You-were-robbed,” as well as sense when you’ve clipped the chains to tell you that it’s proud of you and that it loves you. The Japanese grading system, called dankyu, can prove complicated for travelers, as it is modeled after martial arts rating. Create Space. But when in Tokyo, use taxis. The International Olympic Committee vetoed climbing as an Olympic sport in 2013, but the host country of the Games is allowed to pick a few sports to include, and thanks to a broad appeal in Japan and internationally, climbing made it in. In 1840 there was 1 Gamba family living in Indiana. Good setting makes good climbers,” Toshi says, and I found the biggest difference between U.S. and Japanese gyms was the quality of the setting. Having visited several gyms in Tokyo by this point, I knew that, like many things in Japan, there was an order and rule to every situation. I've heard "tension" and "take" both used. In the U.S., it’s rare for me to go climbing outside … If planning a long trip to climbing spots around the country, rent a car. That all changes when it’s time to lower. They tell you everything from your heart rate, to blood-oxygen saturation, to sleep quality and more. Mitake has more high-quality bouldering and can be reached in two hours from Tokyo via train. Photo: Colette McInerney. “Japan climbers train very hard. See also: in gamba gamba sinistra gamba destra gamba di legno. English words for gamba include leg, shank and lower leg. 1K likes. Mizugaki, a less popular area, offers similar but arguably superior climbing just north of Ogawayama in the neighboring prefecture (a prefecture is like a Japanese province). In business, genba refers to the place where value is created; in manufacturing the genba is the factory floor. Climber, industry man, and friend Handa Yuta became my personal decoder when it came to understanding traits of Japanese climbing culture. “Thirty years ago, strong pioneer climbers began to open some free routes without bolts. Mizugaki is considered one of Japan’s premier bouldering locations because of the quality and concentration of world-class problems. For an extra $2, download the Lowball add-on, which makes the ground appear as if it’s always two feet away for highball bouldering or big-wall free solos. The cam trigger is located inside the shoe. Search for online beta in English and follow the internet trail as far as possible, and once you’re in Japan, the people and community are welcoming, helpful, and friendly. Instead of a puritanical way to find the Lord through suffering, finger cracks become downright fun. Similar constraints will be met by any traveling Westerner, as there are no guidebooks printed in English, so locating climbing areas and navigating them can feel hopeless without a guide or translator. “It is a paradise if you love anime or manga. Japanese climbers often use a lot of English words (especially climbing with foreigners), just with good accents to make them sound Japanese. Many climbers would come to the boulders with several smaller pads stacked smartly on their backs. In the U.S., it’s rare for me to go climbing outside or attend a comp and not recognize at least a few people. Japan’s third-largest island is internationally famous for its porky ramen, rejuvenating hot springs, dramatic mountains, peaceful beaches and outgoing people. In his eyes, appropriating climbing into mainstream culture means that more new and youth climbers will focus on indoor and comps. “And you should never step on anyone’s pad with your shoes on. It clips to your shirt and monitors your vitals to see when you’re struggling. The staff pointed to the spot where I could remove my shoes before I entered the gym’s climbing area. This push toward climbing in a traditional way that is inherently more minimal, leads the modern-day climber on a more dangerous and mentally challenging path. Ask locals for help online and in person once there, but be polite and patient. Travel with cash, since few places take cards in the countryside. Yet the Japanese term “Gamba… Slopey holds and low-angle rock demand thoughtful movement, the use of small feet, and commitment to rounded topouts. We met a few groups of eager climbers in the parking lot before venturing out on the many trails that weave through clusters of boulders. The blinking dot on my phone hovered over an empty building in downtown Tokyo, where this year’s annual Five Ten Cup was supposed to be held. Photo: Colette McInerney, Fly to Tokyo because everyone should experience the world’s most populated metropolitan area. Both are used widely by Japanese climbers. Research local customs to avoid gaffes and offending people. I discovered how this pad setup played a role in functionality and space consciousness the day I visited Mitake, a popular bouldering area an hour outside Tokyo. This is mostly sh… Japanese police could refer to a crime scene as gemba, and TV reporters often refer to themselves as reporting live from gemba. Photo: Colette McInerney. For Kevin's non-humor columns, see Noon Patrol. Dave Kassel, also from the states, was running the event. But many routes can’t be toproped easily, and some climbers will make fun of you if you claim a “toprope redpoint.” With the Comfort Toprope AR app, you never have to feel fear again. He explained the two paths of Japanese climbing: traditional style outdoors and pure difficulty indoors. The Gamba family name was found in the USA, the UK, and Canada between 1840 and 1920. Onsen hot springs. I tried with #nocrashpad style but I could not climb it. Japan faces balancing act over virus clusters among foreign nationals Medical care on brink of collapse in COVID-19 hot spots, panel warns Frontale clinches third J. Typical, I thought. Minimal pads and thin mats are the traditional method for bouldering protection in Japan. Ogawayama’s campground, Mawarime Daira, provides toilets and coin showers for 700 yen per night per person (U.S. $7), and you can use the onsen at Kimpu Sansou for 400 yen (U.S. $4). “Ropes are for old people; bouldering is what all the kids are doing. Photo: Colette McInerney. After a few months, I had shifted my energy to climbing, hoping that this was a field I could relate to no matter how different the culture is. Photo: Colette McInerney. “The Japanese are not really that physically strong of climbers,” says Handa. Search Search for:. Gemba (現場, genba?) It has been serialized in Kodansha's Weekly Shōnen Magazine since July 2017, and has been compiled into eighteen volumes as of November 2020. Toiling Torino are in … Through my year in Japan climbing inside and out, I had witnessed a psyched, positive, and supportive community where the faces were constantly changing. Toshi led us to his recent project, Asagimadara, an 8c/V15 highball. League title after routing Gamba The Cart of Eating Well! Three weeks earlier, Nathaniel had competed in the bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado, where Kokoro Fujii and Tomoa Narasaki had taken first and second, respectively, with Yoshiyuki Ogata finishing fourth. In day to day life, this means using certain language depending on who you are talking to and not eating or drinking in certain public places (the train stations don’t even have trash cans). If your partner asks if you trust him, tell him the truth: “Not unless I have no other choice.”. “Arigatou gozaimasu,” I said as we bowed to each other several times. The Senso-ji temple in Asakusa. Over 100,000 English translations of Italian words and phrases. He never shows fear or worry, proving a high opinion of himself, which drives him to underestimate his adversaries, sometimes even with contempt. Photo: Colette McInerney. If everyone knows what you mean, it doesn't really matter what word you use. I wanted to offer some wisdom to Nathaniel, but as I reflected on the past 12 months in Tokyo, I couldn’t pinpoint a single trait in these climbers that might make them that much better than the rest of us. Kawasaki Frontale celebrate after clinching the J-League first-division football title with a 5-0 win over Gamba Osaka on Nov. 25, 2020, at Todoroki Stadium in Kawasaki, near Tokyo. He is a great manipulator capable of sowing doubt, fear and loss of hope at the same time. And if it becomes too much, you can always clip in direct to a bolt and call the fire department to come get you. However, the concept of Gemba Kaizen holds many more meanings than its literal translation. Most campsites close between December and the the end of April. Experience expands the practitioners toolbox, but sometimes it is just as important to return to the foundations to further the path to mastery. You never plummet toward the earth toproping. Shit gets real when you move above pro, which makes the climbing harder, which makes it even scarier. Sushi appetizers, plates of tofu drizzled in soy sauce, and pints of lager—a popular drink, along with sake—were placed in front of us while we discussed the results of the comp. It forced a different perspective of these “hard” ascents, and it seems at least a few contemporary climbers are hoping to experience some of that phenomena. Even with such a strong bouldering legacy in the country, Americans only know a few names of Japanese climbers, like Koyamada, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, and Akiyo Noguchi. We are living in the future! Okonomiyaki, a Japanese savory pancake. Maybe I didn’t find the one reason why Japanese climbers are so strong, or figure out the complicated subtleties of the culture, but I did see the principles of shugyo, gyo-gi, and omotenashi everywhere I went. 公式サイト https://www.jma-climbing.org/competition/2020/bjc/ リザルト https://www.jma-sangaku.or.jp/climbing/temp_results/bjc/2020/ “Autumn will be the best season for both climbing and food (and sake),” Fukuda says. "Slack" too, though it sounds more like "surakku" Are you wet yet? Similar to the U.S., the growth of climbing gyms has exploded in Japan over the last 10 years thanks in part to a bigger interest in bouldering and sport climbing. Visit Fujimoto for the best grilled meat in Kawakami village, only 20 minutes from Mizugaki and Ogawayama. Since climbing is so international, I think it started as a joke / playful use of language and now it's common enough to be used more seriously. Because the web page and text for my local climbing gym were only in Japanese, it was impossible for me to find when I first arrived. Handa on Diamond slab (V5/V6), Ogyu-joshi in Toyota, Japan. There is a near-infinite number of shoe options. In fact, my examination of all Japanese culture over the last year seemed to uncover more questions than answers. It doesn’t matter which shoes you wear—crack climbing hurts your feet. English Translation of “gamba” | The official Collins Italian-English Dictionary online. Is it aid climbing? Japanese detectives call the crime scene gemba, and Japanese TV reporters may refer to themselves as reporting from gemba. Yuta thinks that climbing’s inclusion in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics will have an even greater effect on the rise of the youth and indoor climber. Within a lean context, Gemba simply refers to the location where value is created, while Kaizen relates to improvements. Though no one was rude to me about my clunky baggage on the train, my anxiety about inappropriate actions stemmed from another Japanese philosophy I was learning about: gyo-gi, the concept of being most polite. When climbing, it’s nice to know that you are the one in control. It became clear in the gyms of Tokyo that better climbing technique beats strength every time. Gamba!” for whomever was up on the wall. The digital rope may not hold a fall, but it will make you feel safer, which if you think about it, kind of makes you safer. It took only a month for construction crews to put up a half-dozen houses outside my apartment in the city, then my favorite sushi place disappeared a mere three months after I discovered it. Rent-A-Girlfriend (Japanese: 彼女、お借りします, Hepburn: Kanojo, Okarishimasu) is a Japanese manga series written and illustrated by Reiji Miyajima. Since I had exited the train station three minutes ago, the city buildings ran together, stacked on top of one another like Lego blocks. “I think climbing being in the Olympics will definitely get more people focused on indoor climbing and competition,” he says. Gumba. American climber, and the only non-Japanese competitor at the event, Nathaniel Coleman sat across from me and explained he thought he did “OK” in the comp with his top 10 finish. This constraint shouldn’t deter a climbing trip to the country, however. A competitor attempts a problem in qualifiers at the 2015 Five Ten Cup in Tokyo. (Though who wants to haul an oven up a multi-pitch route? “We don’t have the same amount of power as other climbers do.” Handa stands 5’5” and weighs about 130 pounds, which is slightly smaller than the average size for a Japanese man. Historically, we believe in a virtue of hard work. Hot Fudge Heated Food Bag It means they are hard workers. Introducing The Fuji Theme One of my main goals whenever I work on a Vulcan project is to open-source as much of my work as I can. Several other large parties sat at bar-style tables with people of all ages, and chatter and laughter filled the room. For bouldering, local climber Handa Yuta recommends Two Monks (V10), Ooin-ru-kawanonagare, Bansousha (V15), Rampage, and Heaven’s Gate; for sport, Excellent Power (5.13a) and Ninja (5.14a); and for trad, Banana Crack (5.11d, 2 pitches) and Super Imjin (5.12b). With the Lowering Ladder, you never have to trust anyone. Related: Listen to Kolin Powick, climbing category director for Black Diamond, weigh in on some of these ideas on our podcast.
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